The History of the T-Shirt

You can’t have missed it: the iconic T-shirt—we’re talking about the classic square cut with a high, round neck—is back in full force! No, it’s not flattering in terms of shape, and yes, that’s exactly why it’s so über-cool. Because no-nonsense fashion is really hip right now. The more ordinary, the better. Could it be because of the abnormal times we’re living in? Or is it a response to the anti-fast fashion movement? Either way, it’s time to dive into the wonderful world of the T-shirt.

A ‘T’-SHIRT?

First of all, the name. T-shirt. Not “t-shirt.” That capital “T” is no coincidence: it refers to the shape of the garment. The sleeves are almost at right angles to the body—at least, that’s what the original version looked like. Later, people discovered that it’s better to make the angle slightly more slanted, because who goes through life with their arms spread wide? Wisdom comes with age. Or so we’ve heard :-).

NIP & TUCK

The first T-shirt was a DIY project. Until the end of the 19th century, men’s underwear took the form of a onesie—a onesie. Oh my… imagine what that looked like. Google taught us that men used to cut their one-piece undersuits in half so they could tuck the top part into their pants more easily, to protect against the cold. We don’t see the logic in that. If you cut a one-piece undersuit in half, wouldn’t the top part just pop out of your pants even faster? So, Google: we beg to differ. We have our own theory. Men just didn’t feel like putting the whole thing in the wash after a day of hard labour. So, out came the scissors—the underwear, with skid marks and other traces, went into the soapy water, while the top could last a few more days. Depending on the man’s profession and sense of hygiene, it’s possible this theory was applied the other way around. Makes sense, right?

FROM THE BOTTOM UP

As with all working-class hero clothing items —think jeans, flannel shirts, cargo pants—commerce eventually takes over. With the Americans leading the way (as usual). The Cooper Underwear Company was the first; they called their new item a “bachelor undershirt”(hey, our theory might actually hold up). The U.S. Navy was next in line, but that doesn’t really fall under the category of commerce. It does, however, fall under the category of “source of inspiration for men’s fashion,” and with that, the T-shirt was promoted once and for all from undergarment to outerwear.

A QUICK SIDETRACK

The power of the T-shirt as a means of conveying a message was already discovered in the 1930s—long before the T-shirt became a fashion phenomenon in the 1950s. Pretty remarkable, isn’t it? Usually, it works the other way around. After the show, visitors to the musical *The Wizard of Oz* could buy a T-shirt to show off their enthusiasm for the show. So the Tin Man is actually the T-man.

In 1948, U.S. presidential candidate Dewey promoted himself by printing the slogan “Dew it with Dewy” on white T-shirts. He lost the race but won the consolation prize for innovative campaigning.

In 1950, popularity skyrocketed and the white T-shirt gained serious sex appeal. All thanks to Marlon Brando, who, in the cult film *A Streetcar Named Desire*, set many a woman’s heart racing with his muscular torso squeezed into a slim-fit shirt. All the while, he looked sultry and sweated sensually. You’d forgive him for that link bracelet right away—or is that fashinable again, too? (These are actually also making a comeback, but more on that in another blog post.)

James Dean did it all over again in 1955 in the classic “Rebel Without a Cause.”

THE LADIES & THE 'T'

When we searched for photos of old-school female celebrities in T-shirts, we didn’t really find much: women were late adopters— for a long time, the classic T-shirt was more of a guy thing. We did find a rare snapshot of Brigitte Bardot in a classic T-shirt and mom (sorry, sex bomb) jeans. And we don’t want to keep this one of Julia Roberts from you, shot by celebrity photographer Herb Ritz. It’s a playful nod to the men’s underwear that inspired the T-shirt. On her 53rd (!!!) birthday in 2020, she pulled off the same trick, urging her fellow Americans to go out and vote. She shared the photo on social media, accompanied by a twist on the famous quote from the movie *Notting Hill*: “I’m just a girl standing in front of a boy, asking him to vote.” Sharp, Jules.

I <3 NY

Which brings us smoothly back to the role of the T-shirt as a vehicle for a message. These don’t always have to be grand messages: sometimes the mere fact that you’ve been somewhere is enough to print on a T-shirt. The most famous, most iconic example of this is shown below—an initiative by graphic designer Milton Glaser in 1977, intended to boost New York’s tarnished image. Next to it, you can see what happens when the tourism industry runs with it. “Been there. Done that. Bought the T-shirt’

THE EIGHTIES

In the 1980s, the T-shirt was used as a tool to stir up sentiment and raise awareness. Katherine Hamnett, a fashion designer who caused a sensation in the ’80s with her slogan T-shirts, pulled off quite a stunt when she shook hands with Margaret Thatcher at the opening of London Fashion Week in 1984. She wore a T-shirt reading “58% don’t want Pershing”—the result of a poll on the deployment of American nuclear missiles in Europe, which had been pushed through without consulting the voters. A mortal sin against democracy, denounced through the most democratic garment ever. Thatcher let out a derisive cackle, the cameras flashed, and Katherine Hamnett became the figurehead of fashion activism. George Michael’s famous “Choose Life” T-shirt was also her creation; it was a cry for attention regarding the suicide and drug problems in England during the 1980s.

A more recent example: In 2017, during Paris Fashion Week, Dior showcased a white T-shirt with the slogan “We should all be feminists.” Thanks to the fashion house’s first female creative director since 1947. Not only did it get people talking, but it also dusted off the image of feminism. Female empowerment was suddenly cool. Which it always had been, but that’s beside the point. The end justifies the means!

If we wanted to, we could go on for pages and pages, presenting examples to your undoubtedly eager eyes. The T-shirt can be found in so many different cultures! The ripped and safety-pin-adorned versions from the punk era, Don Johnson wearing a T-shirt under his (pastel-colored, brand-new) Armani suit, band T-shirts that music fans use to identify with one another, sports shirts with your team’s name on the chest and your favorite overhyped, overpaid “son of God” on the back… We’ll show you a few more highlights.

FAST FORWARD >>>

Fast forward to the present. The old-school “boxy” T-shirt is back in full force in many collections. Yes, it’s in our collection, too.

But now, of course, you want to know how to style it. We’ll tell you: wear whatever makes you feel most comfortable. It really is that simple. Do you like a loose-fitting T-shirt over leggings or skinny jeans? Go for it. Add a cardigan? No problem. Prefer a bit more shape to your silhouette? Tuck the T-shirt into your pants—that could be a trendy pair of mom jeans, of course, but also pleated pants (which are making a big comeback).

Or pair it with a skirt—preferably an ultra-feminine one for a hip contrast. Do you love accessories? A delicate necklace dangling playfully over the edge of your crew neck is totally back in style. Make it a name necklace and you’ll score double style points. We’ll help you get started…

So, are you up for it? It took us a while to get used to them, too, but we’ve come around now. Pull those T-shirts out of your closet (or order them 😃), and then you can have some fun “playing with the contents of your closet”—you’ll be overwhelmed by all the possible combinations. Tried and tested. You can do it, too!