FAQ: Everything You Need to Know About Merino Wool

Even though it looks like we’re in for a beautiful late summer (Mother Nature definitely still has a thing or two to make up for), preparation is key. With that in mind, Plein Publique declares the (merino) wool season officially open.

While you’re still fully in “easy vacation outfits” mode, we’re here already refreshing your merino knowledge. What were the ins and outs again? No need to ask, we’ve got you covered :-).

KNITWITS A GOGO - REFRESHER COURSE MERINO

Can you wash merino wool?

Yes. But only if it says so on the label. Wh-what? Yes, you read that right! You don’t have to wash merino wool—it does just fine if you hang it outside to air out for a few hours. Hanging it outside in the mist, or in the bathroom after a shower (steam is also mist), works wonders too. Spraying it with water to which you’ve added a few drops of organic/essential oil is also a good idea. Odours disappear like snow for the sun. How is that possible? Merino wool—actually, all wool—is naturally antibacterial. Musty odours aren’t trapped in the fibers but in the air between them. Of course, you can definitely wash merino wool every now and then, but preferably as little as possible.

Does merino wool shrink? If so, how can you prevent it?

Merino wool can shrink, but only if you treat it incorrectly. The wool fiber is scaly and hooks onto other fibers—that’s why a woolen item feels soft and fluffy. It keeps you warm because the trapped air retains your body heat. If you wash wool at too high a temperature, the scales are shocked and close up. The trapped air disappears, and the volume of your garment shrinks. Or in other words: your garment has shrunk. That’s why you shouldn’t wash merino wool at temperatures higher than 30 degrees Celsius, and should be using a wool cycle that minimizes friction: friction causes the scales to interlock even more tightly, making the wool less “airy,” reducing the volume of your garment… and so on—you get the idea.

At what temperature do you wash your merino wool in the washing machine?

Never, ever wash merino wool at a temperature higher than 30 degrees Celsius. Otherwise, you’ll damage and distort the wool fibers, causing your wool garment to shrink and/or felt. For that same reason, use a wool cycle that gradually heats up to 30 degrees. This way, the wool can adjust to the temperature slowly and doesn’t immediately curl up like a perm. After all, don’t you dip your big toe in the hot bathwater first before taking a full dip? A wool wash cycle also washes your merino wool with fewer rpm and thus less friction, done specifically to prevent felting.

Do I need to use a special wool detergent for merino wool?

Yes, preferably. We don’t want to break the bank for you, but a good wool detergent for your merino wool clothing is definitely worth the investment. Why? Let us explain. Wool contains wool grease, known as lanolin. This layer of grease ensures that wool repels various types of dirt and grease. It’s also antibacterial: when wool gets slightly damp, the lanolin turns into lanolin soap that repels bacteria. You wouldn’t want to ruin those great self-cleaning properties, would you? A special wool detergent keeps the lanolin layer on your merino wool garment intact. In fact, sometimes it even contains lanolin and replenishes the protective layer where needed. Brilliant! Don’t forget to skip the fabric softener: using it negates all the benefits of the wool detergent.

I used the wool cycle, but my merino wool item still shrunk. WTF???

Poor sheep… The wool wash cycle was the right choice: the key lies in the speed (rpm) of it. Make sure to set it to a maximum of 600 rpm. More than 600 revolutions = more friction = more damage to the wool fibers = shrinkage and/or felting. So choose a low spin speed, and if your garment isn’t completely dry yet, let it air dry. It takes a little more time, but that’s just how it is with all the good things in life :-).

How can I restore shrunken merino wool?

In principle, the shrinking process is irreversible. But there are a few tricks you can use to get your garment back to a more realistic size. Submerge your garment in a bucket of lukewarm water with a splash of wool detergent. Don’t let it soak, but make sure the fibers are thoroughly wet. Roll it up in a towel and gently squeeze out the excess water. (Don’t wring it out—hold back.) To make your garment longer, hang it on a hanger whose shoulder width is roughly the same as that of your sweater or cardigan. (That is to avoid Alexis Colby shoulders—though that is actually pretty fashionable right now…) Use a hanger with rounded ends so as not to pierce the knit. Let it air dry, and voilà: extra length (if only that worked for longer hair too, pfff). Want to add width instead? Follow the same procedure, but place your garment on a special mesh drying rack and gently stretch it to the desired width. The air will do the rest. Note: While this method lets you adjust the dimensions of your garment, it won’t restore the knit’s lost airiness and volume.

Can you hand-wash merino wool?

Hand washing seems safer for merino wool, but it isn’t necessarily so. Unless you put a thermometer in the water, because 30ºC feels surprisingly cool, so you’re quickly tempted to add a bit more hot water. Moreover, hand-washing doesn’t prevent the aforementioned “shock effect” that can be so damaging to your merino wool. Soaking is a definite no-no. Just like spinning. Does that quick, simple hand wash suddenly sound like a real hassle? Mission accomplished.

Can you dry merino wool near the heater?

Oh my…don’t even get me started. Wool is sensitive to sudden temperature fluctuations: it loses its crimped fiber structure—and with it, pretty much everything that makes merino wool so wonderful. So that heater, as tempting as it may be, is really not recommended for your merino wool. Bright sunlight also has the same devastating effect on wet wool. You should air-dry wool, preferably outdoors in the fresh air with a gentle breeze.

We’ve now shared the most important tips and tricks with you. You’re welcome:) You’re also welcome to visit our shop, where the latest merino wool items are just waiting to be discovered by you!